The following appeared over a ten page slot in the January 2003 issue of Global Adventure.
There's a whole lot more to mountain biking than downhill racing, dirt jumping, and an afternoon in the forest. A mountain bike is so much more than two wheels bolted to a heap of metal. It's a reliable companion, a key to fitness, and a passport to a lifetime of adventure and freedom. Have bike will travel, that motto certainly stands high in Steve Thomas's multiple motto list, which is why we persuaded him to guide you smoothly towards the two wheeled adventure of a lifetime.
Personal file
Steve Thomas Age 21 (and a few months 192)
Home North Wales
First country visited Spain
After a brief winter training visit to Majorca
in his late teens Steve pitched himself against the establishment and the
odds and set off with his bike, B#85, and a suitcase full of rice pudding
to try his hand as a full time continental bike racer. Two years of living
from his wits and winnings and commuting back and forth between mainland Europe
on late night trains and Steve's life pattern was firmly etched. Some 18 years
later things have moved on some, but that man and his bike against the world
ethic still lives on, and the two (or more) of them continue their mad quest
to boldly go where no biker has gone before.
Number of years travelling 18
Countries biked in
France, Spain, Switzerland, Monaco, Andorra, Italy, Belgium, Norway, Austria,
Turkey, Tunisia, Morocco, Jordan, Iceland, USA, Mexico, Dominican Republic,
Nepal, Malaysia, Singapore, Mauritius, Pakistan, Egypt, Ireland and Greece.
Years travel writing 10
Travel writing background
In the early days of mountain biking Steve was visited by the editor of a
mountain bike magazine who wanted to write a feature on his mad biking antics.
Two weeks later Steve had written two freelance features for them, and had
effectively launched him towards a new career. For several years his writings
were based around his exploits as an extreme professional mountain biker,
and thus lent themselves to adventure travel. Since then his tendencies have
put him behind the camera more and more, and he now spends much of his time
travelling the world writing and photographing bike and other active travel
based features as he goes. As well as being a permanent fixture on the UK's
leading cycling magazines Steve is also a regular contributor to many mainstream
magazines including GQ, FHM and front as well as selling his works to many
leading newspapers and other travel and adventure titles. Away from this you
will also see Steve's works in various advertising campaigns, books (which
has also authored) and other media.
Mountain bike credentials
Several years of extreme biking around the globe have seen Steve achieving
many extreme feats, including; the first (and only) Lands End to John O'Groats
MTB off road record (8 days). The unassisted MTB land speed record (80kph).
Traverses of the Aonach Eagach Ridge, the Deosai Plateau (worlds highest),
riding down the Cresta Run, staring in TV adverts, and much moreb&
Intro
You could be hurtling all out down some awesome alpine peak, all guts and
adrenaline. Or quietly pootling your way through the back lanes and vineyards
of Tuscany. Maybe even battling your way down the Karakoram Highway on the
ultimate journey of a lifetime. Extremes all of them, for sure. Some may appeal
to you, while others may catch the imagination of another. But at the end
of the day the two things they all have in common are travel and mountain
bikes. One leads to the other and vice versa. It's an extremely diverse, yet
a perfect mix. I've been fortunate enough to spend much of my life travelling,
and almost every mile of that has been in the company of my bike. You could
say it's the perfect life partner. It's always there, it'll do whatever you
want it to do, it doesn't complain, has no mood swings or credit cards and
doesn't leave the top off the toothpaste. What more could you ask for? Travelling
with a bike is, in my humble opinion, the only way to go. There's nothing
quite like the freedom of the open road, and that freedom is so much more
appreciated when the wind is rushing through your air and it's just you and
versus the world. This great open road holds so much, and if you chose to
take it you'll encounter a life's worth of great experiences for your efforts.
The beauty of travelling by bike is that you can move pretty quickly and get
to incredibly remote places. By doing things the two-wheeled way you get to
experience the world from a very different and far more friendly stand point.
On the other hand you could opt to gush your way through more adrenaline and
physical extremes in one go than you can in just about any other form of travel.
And the great thing is that you are always in control, and can make, mix and
match these things to suit. In one single day of riding you can quite easily
experience each and every one of these aspects, and so much more besides.
Wherever you travel with your bike you'll find it like carrying a fluffy bear
around. Barriers melt away, Some may just ogle at it's great beauty, others
may want to hear of your travels, while many will but marvel at your physical
efforts, whichever it is it's a sure fire way of meeting friends on the road.
The world is your Chopper, and it's waiting to be ridden. The opportunities
are there in abundance, like never before. There may never be a tomorrow,
and there certainly won't be a better time. Read on, then go out and have
yourself the adventure of a lifetime!
Travelling with your bike
Speaking as a well-seasoned traveller, it always amazes me at people's pre-conceptions
and fears when it comes to travelling with their bikes. Some of the rumours
that get around and the odd horror story, which gets blown out of all proportion
and seem to have an incredible deterrent effect on people. Yet, with some
30 odd flights, numerous train journeys, a couple of coach trips, and two
million (seemingly) trans-European car miles beneath me already this year
I really can tell you that travelling with your bike is simply not a problem.
The world is out there, and its finest trails are just begging to be ridden!
Official policy
Easyjet www.easyjet.com Bikes are included within the 20kg baggage allowance.
Excess charges @ B#2.90 per Kilo. Must be bagged/boxed, or simply have pedals
removed and tyres deflated.
Ryanair; www.ryanair.com A charge of B#15 per one way flight will be levied. Must be bagged/boxed, or have pedals removed and tyres deflated.
GO; www.go-fly.com Return charge of B#20 per bike is made. Must be bagged/boxed, or simply have pedals removed and tyres deflated.
Monarch Crown; www.fly-crown.com - No charge within 20kg weight limit. Excess weight charged at B#2 per kilo. Must be bagged/boxed, or have pedals removed and tyres deflated.
British Airways; 0845 7733377 Complicated! Dependent on how long the journey is determines the excess. This ranges from B#7 per kilo in Europe to B#45 per excess kilo to the Far East. Baggage allowances also differ with destinations. To the US bikes come within 2 x 32kg baggage allowance. If extra to this a B#50 each way charge is made. Bikes to be bagged/boxed.
Delta Airlines; 0800 414767 - $75 per flight bike charge. Bikes to be bagged or boxed.
Northwest/KLM Airlines; 0870 5561000 Transatlantic bike charge $80 each way. Costs vary dependent on destination. Must be boxed/bagged. Boxed available for $50 plus tax from Gatwick Airport.
Emirates; www.emirates.com Bikes charged as excess baggage, most destinations charged at B#35 per kilo excess! Must be bagged/boxed, or cheaper still forget the bike!
Eurostar; www.eaurstar.com Bikes must be disassembled and bagged, in which case they can be carried free of charge as hand luggage. Otherwise must be shipped separately as freight at B#25 each way.
National Express; 0870 5808080 Only carried if disassembled and bagged, in which case they go free.
Virgin Trains; 0854 7484950 3/6 bikes allowed per train. A charge of B#3 per ticket is made, advance booking advised.
** There are some 27 different train companies, all have different policies, check with the number above before travelling. ** Only certain London Underground lines permit bikes on board. Leaflets available from rail and tube stations.
The unofficial word
Know exactly where you stand before you travel. At the airport watch passengers
in front of you, and look for sympathetic check in clerks. Ultimately the
decision on whether or not to charge you for your bike will rest with the
clerk, so dependent on what kind of a day they're having you will often not
be charged. If extortionate amounts are mentioned do at all cos ts argue,
and seek higher intervention! Blag your way through as much as possible.
Bike packing
For long haul trips and regular travel a bike bag is a wise investment. Expect
to pay from B#75 for a soft padded bag and up to B#300 for a wheeled hard
case. Soft cases offer little in the way of impact protection, but are easier
to carry and a re stowable at the opposite end unlike hard cases. For most
European flights you really do not need to shell out on expensive packing
options, especially if you have nowhere to store bags/boxes at the other end.
Simply remove your pedals, bottle, pump etc, turn the bars sideways, drop
your saddle, slightly deflate your tyres then bubble wrap your bars, saddle
and main frame tubes. This way the bike can be wheeled, which makes it less
prone to the handlers hurl. For long haul flights you can scrounge a box from
your friendly local bike shop. Most will be glad to get ride of them, though
some may charge you a B#5 for the privilege of carting away their rubbish.
Top tips
Be sure your baby is well insured before you go. Many household policies have
excellent options.
Check out your personal accident insurance before travelling. Some exclude
mountain biking, and most exclude any form of competition.
Scour your bike for damage before clearing customs. If it is damaged you must
get this acknowledged by ground staff in order to lodge a claim.
When packing avoid completely deflating tyres. This can lead to rim, tube
and tyre damage.
To keep your frame and forks from getting squashed get hold of some plastic
fork spacers from your local shop. These come as standard packaging for most
new bikes. When packing your bike try to avoid over doing things. If you damage
something or strip a thread your whole trip could be ruined.
A small stash of zip ties and a couple of toe
straps can fix most things in an emergency, so be sure to travel with some.
Bright and flashy bikes are magnets to thieves, especially those who don't
normally see such beauties. If you have a flashy bike leave it dirty while
travelling, it'll help keep it safe.
Never travel without back up in the essential department; cleats, cables,
chain and pump are all things that if broken will write off an entire trip.
Choosing the right bike and equipment
There's no doubt what so ever that your choice
of bike for a trip or holiday can make or break the whole experience. You
wouldn't expect to trek the Himalayas in a pair of slippers or ski in shorts
would you? The same principal applies when selecting the right bike for your
proposed trip, and unfortunately many people give the realities and practicalities
of this very scant regard. First of all your overall experience as a cyclist
will come heavily into play. Anyone who rides seriously will feel completely
ill at ease with a hired bike, and will most likely find themselves with all
kinds of aches and pains after a couple of days riding, so they really need
to stick to their own steeds. On this subject I would generally advise taking
your own bike on a trip, as the standard of hire bikes varies dramatically.
If you are travelling with a serious UK based outfit then hiring a quality
bike of the rights size is a decent option, but check it out first. If you
do go for this option then take you own pedals, and even saddle along. Also
make a note of the saddle and bar height of your own bike before setting out
and make sure to set your hired hand up to the same proportions. If you're
fortunate enough to have an option or two with bike selection then all the
better. If travelling to far-flung destinations, solo, or on trips where daily
mileages are high then keep it simple. A flash full suspension bike with disc
brakes will be a real drag on a 100km dirt road ride, and when the breaks
overheat you'll be in trouble. Trying to get the Moroccan blacksmith to repair
a leaky cylinder or make a spoke for your flashy wheels will prove quite a
task, so aim to be able to easily repair your bike using your own means. If
on the other hand you're taking a freeride trip to the Alps they you really
will not have fun trying to manoeuvre your retro rigid bike and panniers off
the bigger jumps, so think practical. Luckily I have a flexible garage full
of bikes, but my most travelled is a retro rigid MTB. With simple breaks,
no hydraulics, two bolt sizes and no frills it's light to drag through the
terminal, versatile on the road as well as off road, and fixable with a multi
tool and a Swiss army knife. And not being flash neither does it attract attention
from potential thieves! Whatever your choice of bike, be sure to thoroughly
test ride it and brake it in before you set sail on your trip.
Equipment
essentials
Whatever your chosen destination there are a few things that you really ought
to have along for the ride, or invest in if you don't already posses them;
Spare tyre, tube, puncture outfit and a quality pump.
A tool kit/multi tool which will cover every eventuality including a broken
chain.
Small rear light, just in case you get lost.
Basic first aid kit and a survival blanket.
Helmet, gloves, eye protection and a decent breathable waterproof jacket.
Good quality chamois lined shorts and MTB shoes.
Small back pack for carrying essential supplies.
Choosing the right company and destination
Unless you're a serious gambler then you really need to pay serious attention
to the company you travel with and your chosen trip and destination. There
are so many variables involved here. Firstly you need to decide what you want
to get out of the trip. You may be looking for eyeballs out adrenaline action,
in which case you need to be looking for high mountain lift serviced freeride
centre based options. If on the other hand you're seeking a relaxing week
of fun biking mixed with a dose of sun bathing and some nightlife then look
towards the larger companies offering such options, which are mostly multi
sport island based trips. Maybe it's a cultural trip of a lifetime without
too much of this extreme stuff, if so then the smaller operators advertising
in the pages of Global and the specialist mags are bound to have something
right up your street. I don't imagine that you'll be too happy finding yourself
sitting on top a of a mountain waiting for a complete novice to push through
the entire days ten mile ride, or conversely find yourself on your knees chasing
after a pack of race heads. The best way to determine this is to start by
checking out brochures and itineraries, see what may suit and then speak in
person with the operator being honest with them over your standard and needs,
many people do tend to be over adventurous here! Once you've got this far
and you're working within your budget you need to make sure that you are travelling
with a reputable operator. Without a doubt word of mouth and personal recommendation
are the best things to go by, but of course they are not always available.
In this case look at the obvious; does their web site/literature/adverts tend
to suggest that they know what they are about, or do they just appear to be
another know nowt jumping on the band wagon? Either way it's always worth
asking around and speaking to the operators in person.
Going solo
To many of us the "laid on" or packaged option simply isn't an option at all.
Maybe it's the independent streak, the quest for the unknown, saving a few
bucks, or simply there is nothing else out there to whet your appetite. It
really doesn't matter why you chose the solo option there are some key issues
to consider. Firstly, unless you're really planning a super shoe string trip,
then the saving of pennies generally doesn't work out that well especially
when you're taking advantage of some guides hard earned trail hunting and
good food testing skills. This kind of information is key when it comes to
mountain biking. If you are in search of fantastic trails, and that's your
main aim then the solo traveller is best to head for classic destinations
where route maps and way marked trails are laid on. Places such as Moab and
the Alps are perfect for ease of trail finding. If you try your luck elsewhere
the chances are that you'll waste two thirds of your trip looking at dead
ends, which is false economy, so check things out with local bike shops/tourist
offices if this is your planned option. If on the other hand you're looking
at a classic journey or simply solitude and culture then the solo option could
be the one. To start with you should assemble as much advance route, weather,
facilities and accommodation info as you possibly can, simply winging it in
the mountains of Pakistan could leave you in serious trouble believe me! Having
found out that the area is safe to travel in, and making sure that your route
avoids potential hazards then you're well on your way. When route planning
be sure not to over estimate potential daily distances, a landslide or a storm
could see you out in the wilds and out of food. Have a base plan, but leave
plenty of flexibility and have escape options all along the way. Look carefully
at your pit stop options on route. Be sure that you can get food and water
easily, and make a mental note of places where you can get repairs done on
the move. On this note think seriously about your accommodation options. Camping
may seem like a great option, but personally speaking I prefer to avoid it.
Carrying piles of gear will seriously slow you down, and in many mountainous
areas it's not the safest option, especially when, if you plan ahead, you
can almost always time your routes around some form of accommodation. And
it doesn't always work out to be worth the extra couple of Dinar you've saved.
Travelling solo could also make you a potential target to bandits and thieves,
so avoid being bright and flashy, and be stopped well before dark. You must
also be well equipped for emergencies, first aid kits, extreme weather gear,
spares and tools should all figure highly on your kit list the kit list you
will be keeping to a minimum that is! Warnings over! Travelling solo is almost
always my chosen option. As a foreigner in a strange land you must be careful
and courteous, and as long as you are then you will be made very welcomed
by the majority of people you encounter along the way. This is something that
you are unlikely to experience with group travel. It may be tough and lonely
at times, but the sense of achievement will be well worth it. As for the bike?
Keep your eye on it, especially when kids are around, but also be prepared
to become a welcomed two wheeled freak show wherever you go, it's great!
The worlds top ten-mountain bike destinations
1. Moab Utah, USA
Moab is without doubt the fat tire planets most famous feature. Endless desert
jeep tracks winding through huge red rock canyons on such legendary trails
as the White Rim, Porcupine and Poison Spider trails make this place completely
awesome for riding. Moab is also home to the most famous bike trail in the
world, the Slickrock Trail, which is just fantastic to ride. Combine the trails
with a superb bike friendly culture and infrastructure and you'll see exactly
why the title of the mountain bike Mecca is bestowed upon this wild west desert
town. This is somewhere that every mountain biker should visit at some time.
Once you've ridden Moab then you are a true mountain biker, and possibly not
before! You will not be disappointed. Various UK based tour companies offer
Moab as part of their US trips, such as Saddle Skedaddle www.skedaddle.co.uk.
For local trail and accommodation info check out www.poisonspiderbicycles.com
2. Colorado, USA
Colorado and its Rocky Mountains have perhaps the best variety and the widest
number of top trails available anywhere in the world. Just about every "red
neck Rocky Mountain town" and ski resort will have a good network of bike
trails. The following are simply the cream of the crop. Crested Butte is an
old mining town cum ski resort, which is home to the oldest fat tire festival
in existence. The trails here are superb high mountain dirt tracks, and probably
the best single track in the whole state! Steamboat Springs lies to the far
north of the state, and is another high altitude mining town turned ski resort.
The high rolling planes and forests in these parts are home some superb epic
rides. To the deep south of Colorado is the small town of Durango. This place
is perhaps second only to Moab in mountain bike legend and stature. Most of
the early mountain bike great racers emanated from the town, and when you
see the trails you can tell why. Sandwiched between the Rockies and the Utah
Canyons is the small town of Fruita, which has some of the west's finest desert
singletrack. Other towns such as Breckenridge, Aspen and Vail are also great
destinations. Rocky Mountain Adventures offer centre-based holidays from Breckenridge.
Check out www.rocyymountainadventures.com
3. Picos de Europa, Spain
The Picos are a stunning mountain range in the far north of Spain. And, in
general, where there are great mountains there are also great trails, and
the Picos are no exception to this theory. The finest trails in the range
are undoubtedly to be found around the market town of Potes, the village of
Treviso, and in towards the cable car station of Fuente De. The great thing
about this region is that it remains relatively untouched, you won't find
the ski lodges and high rise prices of the Alps, but you will get to ride
excellent rocky mountain trails and superb natural single track. Saddle Skedaddle
offer centre based trips to the area throughout the summer, and are the undoubted
mountain bike experts in this area. Check out www.skedaddle.co.uk or call
0191 2651110 for details.
4. Iceland
If it's a classic rugged polar style adventure that you're after then the
hundreds of miles of wide open space and trails of Iceland could be just your
schnapps. The classic destination for bikers is the interior desert, which
is a wild and baron place, and not for the feint hearted. Storms, floods and
raging winds make this a classic adventure destination for hardy bikers. But,
it has to be said that the best trails are definitely not those deserted straits
of the interior but the near virgin trails of the spectacular NorthWest Fjords.
There isn't a great deal in the way of organised mountain bike tours to the
country, but check out the Icelandic Mountain Bike Club web site, it has loads
of great info. http://www.mmedia.is/~ifhk/tourist.htm
5. Nepal
There are a whole heap of classic mountain bike adventures to found in the
high mountain kingdom of Nepal. Whatever level of rider you are there are
trails and adventures to suit. Straight out of the capital city of Kathmandu
you can find yourself riding through paddy fields and villages, along centuries
old farm trails through amazing single track and riding into colonial hill
resorts with amazing vistas across to the might Mount Everest it's self. If
it's a seriously epic cultural and spiritual journey your seeking then why
not try the epic three-week overland journey from Lhassa to Kathmandu? Several
operators run great trips to Nepal, perhaps the broadest range of offers come
from KE Adventure Travel (017687 73966) www.keadventure.com and Nepal based
Himalayan mountain Bikes www.bikingnepal.com.
6. Alpujarras, Spain
Southern Spain's Alpujarra Mountains are effectively the foothills to the
Sierra Nevada range. Some of Europe's finest mountain biking is to be found
on the trails of this sun blessed region. A great network of old dirt tracks
and trade routes combine together to make for superb and epic bike adventures.
This place is so close to the UK that it's almost cheaper and easier to get
to than the Lakes or Scotland, though it's unlikely that you'll get a sun
tan or meet mule riding shepherds on the trails of Troutbeck! Ciclo Montana
is a specialist mountain bike tour operator based right in the heart of these
wonderful mountains. They offer both centre based holidays and tours of the
region, classic biking is guaranteed. Tel 00 34 958 765200 or check out www.web.espana.com/ciclo/
7. Atlas Mountains, Morocco
Situated deep in the heart of Morocco are the Atlas Mountains, a real gem
rising from the distant desert plains. Just a short overland venture out from
the hustle and bustle of the city of Marrakech and you'll find yourself riding
along amazing high mountain dirt roads, winding your through Berber villages
and passing through a slice of living history. Exodus has been operating mountain
bike adventures in the Atlas for many years now, and have varying tour options
available. These include high mountain traverses and even an option of simply
riding downhill all week! For more details call 020 87723819 or check out
www.exodus.co.uk
8. The Alps
Almost wherever you go to in the Alps you are guaranteed great mountain biking.
Most of the numerous ski resorts have developed excellent trail networks over
the last few years, and are well facilitated for mountain biking. Probably
the most mountain bike orientated region of the Alps is the Portes du Soliel
area of the French quarter. The region around Les Gets, Morzine and Avoriaz
has a plethora of way marked trails and world class downhill routes, and throughout
the summer months these are easily accessed though a superb ski lift network
which is opened up to ferry bikers all around the valley and it's trail network.
There are numerous operators working in this area. One of the most established
is Alp Active, who run chalet based tours from Les Gets, check out www.alpactive.com
or call 01223 568220.Jolly Good Alpine Adventures also operate mountain bike
trips in the region check out www.jollyadventure.com
9. Costa Rica
The Central American country of Costa Rica may not be huge, but it is home
to many classic adventures off all kinds, and of course this includes a whole
load of great mountain biking. The ultimate classic biking adventure in Costa
Rica is the week long Ruta de Los Conquistadors, which is a coast to coast
trans country journey. The route passes through amazing mountain scenery and
rain forests as you follow in the footsteps of the Spanish Conquistadors who
made this self same journey centuries ago, though not by bike of course. There
are several companies, both UK and locally based, who offer this journey and
others in this beautiful country. One of the best established of these outfits
are Journey Latin America. For details call 020 87458315 or check out www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk
10.Sabah, Borneo
Sabah is one half of Malaysian Borneo, and is best known as "the land of the
head hunters" and home of the "wild man of the jungle" (orang-utan). Thankfully
headhunting in its jungles stopped many years ago, so it's perfectly safe
to ride out into the jungle without fear of losing your head. The whole province
is criss-crossed with jungle trails and village dirt roads. The variety of
trails is both immense and diverse, but the real draw of biking in Sabah is
the fact that you can find yourself in some totally breath and heart taking
places. Borneo travel offer both packaged and tailor made trips which will
take you through native villages, rainforests, along stunning coastlines and
so much more. For details call 01429 650225 of check out www.borneo-travel.com.
