Recently publishing in Med Life, GB Airways inflight magazine;
Two wheels through Morocco
Morocco has some of the most adventurous cycling you
can find, and you don’t
need to be super fit to enjoy it. Steve Thomas saddles up for a grand tour
between the countries imperial cities.
Following on from a weary day in the saddle the mystery
Moroccan dancer, all shrouded in his hooded jellaba, had the crowd somewhat
bemused with his nifty and bizarre moves. He also had the staff at the traditional
palace cultural evening somewhat amused. Then his true identity was revealed;
it was time for me to leave the floor again. Giggling belly dancers shocked
Japanese tourists and tipsy cyclists looked in confusion on as I left the
stage and the evening continued.
It was day something or other of our road cycling tour through the Atlas Mountains
and imperial cities of Morocco, and an evening of local hospitality had been
set aside in the city of Fez, famed for it’s Tommy Cooper style hats.
The following day was to be a fascinating souq tour and shopping trip around
this enchanting city. Along the way we would learn everything you could possibly
even want to know about carpets, herbal medicines, and so much more that it’s
difficult to remember.
This
shopping excursion had been a somewhat welcomed respite from the first half
of the trips cycling, which hadn’t quite gone to plan. It was late November,
and the last of operator Exodus’s seasons scheduled trips along this
particular route. A whole five rain free months had passed by before our arrival,
and nothing wet was anticipated to materialise for a few more weeks yet. But
seemingly someone had cruelly crammed in sack of Britains finest wet stuff
with their hand luggage, and the bag split on leaving the airport departure
lounge at Casablanca. And boy did it ever split in style; monsoon and maybe
even typhoon style! For almost three days solid it howled and poured down,
which seriously restricted our flatland cycling over the first few days.
Then one fine morning the high mountain hotel shutters opened and the sky
miraculously cleared, at last the biking could now begin in earnest. By this
time we were somewhere just to the west of the High Atlas Mountains, unfortunately
due to the opening weather we had arrived somewhat blind to the region, though
this shroud was about to be lifted to unveil the true and stunning beauty
of the Atlas Mountains.
Rolling high along a mountain plateau the orange brown landscape of the Atlas
lay out before us, a sight far removed from the mountains of Europe and the
west. Much of the Atlas range carries this irrigated and colourful make up,
and the land is dotted with Berber settlements while mule riding Berber hill
people pass by every few minutes, usually waving and smiling in a way that’s
genuinely welcoming.
Cranking further into the days ride and the group had split, everyone taking
things art their own peace and in private contemplation. Over the climb of
the day we hit a thundering 7km descent, twisting and winding it’s way
into a deserted valley, with huge sections of road washed out from the previous
few days downpours. Climbing out of this valley was amazing; the sky was crystal
clear, the sun was bright and the air so clean.
Following
a brief lunch stop things got more serious, and we hit the first mountain
pass of the High Atlas. I chose to ride the whole thing, while the wiser members
of the group hitched a ride in the Landrovers. Panting out from the pass and
onto a high mountain plateau the day was running short. Behind us the sun
sunk slowly into the days earlier hills and the landscape turned to an even
warmer orange colour. It was time to load up the bikes and head for home to
prepare for another diverse day in the saddle.
Another sun blessed morning followed yet another evening of belly dancing.
Climbing gently out of the valley we rode onto a rolling High Atlas plateau
road. Cedar forests swung by monkeys had lined the way so far, but with times
verging on winter and a near 2000 metres of altitude for company the vistas
had changed somewhat. For miles and miles we were surrounded by fantastic
snow covered views, not at all the kind of thing you expect to see in Morocco.
Sure enough it was a testing day, but it was probably the best. I mean, how
often do you get to see such a place in such rare snowy glory, even if you
do pay for it with effort along the road?
All that now lay between us and the respite and hustle of Marrakech was one
closing day in the saddle to reach the mighty waterfalls of Cacades d’Ouzoud.
Once again the sun had joined us for the ride, and the air had that refreshing
mountain crispness about it. Starting our ride from the top of the day’s
first pass the not too distant peaks of the High Atlas appeared before us
all neatly iced with the early snows of winter. Dramatic to say the least.
The magnificent colour of the middle landscape seemed so much stronger than
ever. Like a biblical chocolate Christmas cake the sweet brown landscape rolled
sweetly into the rugged icing of the mountains, while donkey-riding characters
decorated the fluffy surface. Breezing along through high Berber villages
and a landscape dotted with kasbahs made for a fantastic end to a great trip
and some awesome biking!
The
cycling
The journey was made possible by riding cherry picked sections each day on our way around Morocco’s imperial cities. Daily distances were not high by any means – anywhere from 60-110kms at a time. The trip is graded as moderate, and vehicle support is always available to carry weary legs over the hills in comfort. It is suitable for anyone with a reasonable level of fitness. The terrain is made up of quiet rolling roads, and bike hire is available.
The route
Our ten-day trip started from the coastal city of Casablanca. From here we headed north along the coast to the countries capital city of Rabat. Turning inland we Oulmes, then on to the city of Meknes. After dropping in on the Roman ruins at Volubilis we headed east to the city of Fes. After Fes we hit the mountains and pedalled our way southwards through the Middle and High Atlas Mountains via Ifrane and Bin El Quidane before ending up at the spectacular waterfalls at Cascades d’Ouzound and on Marrakech. It is easily possible organise an extension and to continue to Agadir.
The trip
This
trip is a regular spring and autumn feature on the Exodus schedule as "The
Imperial Cities & The Atlas" tour. They offer several other biking
and active trips to Morocco, including many which cover the ground from Agadir
to Marrakech.
For further info contact www.exodus.co.uk or call (44) 020 8675 5550.
Agadir city guide
If it’s sun, sand, sea and great modern facilities
you’re after then Agadir is the place to be. The old city was all but
flattened in the terrible 1960 earthquake, and has since been completely rebuilt.
This newness sets Agadir apart from Morocco’s other cities, something
which you will either love or loathe. Every day sun seeking tourists from
northern Europe turn up to sap up the cities luxury and great climate. High
quality hotels, seafront restaurants and clean beaches make the Barbery coastal
resort far more akin to its chic European counterparts that you would expect
of a Moroccan city.
Just up the hill from the town is the old city kasbah, and it’s historic
fort, which is well worth a ride out. In town it’s self check out the
Jardin de Olhao, a pleasant Portuguese style garden area. The Valle des Oiseaux
is another small parkland strip that also has a small zoo. Museums are somewhat
thin on the ground, though the Musee Municipal does have a rather nice selection
of Saharan arts and crafts on display. A great place for bird watching is
the Oued Souss Estuary, which leis a few kilometres south of town. Here you
can often see various species including flamingos and spoonbills.
If sunbathing or city life isn’t your thing, or you simply fancy a day
out with a difference then Agadir makes for a great base. With it’s high
tourism profile there’s no shortage of reputable operators offering all
manor of excursions. One place well worth a visit is Immouzzer des Ida Outanane,
a village 35 miles north of Agadir, and the drive it’s self is also a
great ride. The village is famous for it’s cascades (waterfall), and
the Cascades Hotel makes for a great lunch stop. Heading south for either
a long day out or an overnight trip you reach the hill town of Tarfaoute,
from where you can hit out and take in the bizarre sight of the local blue
rocks – painted by Belgian artist Jean Veran in 1984.
Two hours drive inland is the historic imperial city of Taroudannt, a great
place to experience old Morocco, and maybe even bump into one of the many
super stars who holiday there from time to time. Be sure to check out the
excellent shopping here, especially the leather goods.
Most of these excursions are fairly easy to take on alone, either by hiring
a taxi or by public transport. If there is a small group then it’s well
worth hiring a Landrover and driver for the day, check out www.ergtours.com
There is a small Agadir tourist office at the airport, though the main Delegation
du Tourisme office is upstairs in the main central market area, off Ave Sidi
Mohammed, and opens from Monday-Thursday from 8.30am until 12.00pm, then from
2.30pm until 6.30pm (Closed 11.30am-3pm Friday). Tel 846377.
