Hot off the press! Well, almost.
Steve's recently pulished city guide to Kuala Lumpur - as seen in Global Adventure.
Even the name sounds exotic, Kuala Lumpur that is. Unfortunately its meaning isn't quite so exotic "meeting of two dirty rivers". Either way this city is one of the most colourful and culturally vibrant cities in the world, and an inspiring place to spend a few days. It tends to pop up on so many travel itineraries, often as a stop over port en route to Australia. Many passengers either simply transfer planes or even spend a drowsy night sleeping in a packaged hotel. This is quite frankly sacrilege to this oriental pearl. As Malaysia's capital city it is indeed the jewel in the nations crown, and boasts some of the most diverse architecture and cultural blends of any city anywhere. An interesting melange of religions and far eastern cultures blend together like nowhere else to create a harmonious and fascinating way of life, which any visitor will be enthralled with. Whether it be bartering your way through the bargains and hustle of China Town, gazing at the dizzy heights of the Petronas Towers or taking an excursion to one of the chilled out hill stations KL has the lot, and in wok loads.
Orientation
Loosely speaking Kuala Lumpur is about half
way down and just in from the West Coast of peninsular Malaysia. It's the
capital city of the country, and is very much a mix of old and new including
geographically. The new slick KLIA airport is an hour south of the city (close
to the Sepang F1 circuit) and is linked by express coaches and the new fast
train service. The city itself is at the head of the countries "cyber corridor,"
the Klang Valley. This valley spreads southeast through Petaling Jaya, Shah
Alam and Putrajaya. North of the city the highway leads through a number of
towns and kampungs on the flatlands towards the city of Ipoh, while inland
lie the jungle clad highlands that are home to the old colonial hill stations.
The city itself is serviced by a fast growing network of highways, all of
which are traffic heavy. Central KL is best navigated by public transport,
which is quite good. The new centre is based around the "Golden Triangle"
which included the famous KL modern architecture. To the west of this area
is the Jalan Bukit Bintang area, which is well blessed with top hotels and
a thriving nightlife. Slightly further west still is Chinatown, the old centre
of KL. Most of the citys parks and green areas are on the outskirts of town
in all directions.
KL adventure
Although there isn't a whole load in the
way of guidebooks and literature available there are a fair amount of opportunities
for climbing and caving around KLs surrounding network of limestone crags
and caves. Just out of KL are the Batu Caves, and there is plenty of decent
climbing on the crags around them. Check out www.malaysianrock.atfreeweb.com
Cameron Highlands is great place for jungle trekking.
Being quite high the temperatures here are somewhat cooler than those of the
low lands. The treks here tend to be single day jobs, and you will encounter
plenty of friendly natives and wild orchids along the way.
Just out of KL city Centre is Bukit Kiara. This is where the local mountain
bikers ride. It's not a huge expanse, but it has some superb trails. The locals
have hand crafted a great network of wild jungle single track, which must
be some of the best in the whole country. This is also a good place to trail
run and hike. The first chapter of the Hash House Harriers was formed way
back in 1938 by a small group of British ex-pats living in KL, and there are
now several running hash chapters in action all over Malaysia. There is also
now a thriving mountain bike hash scene in KL. Most bashes are completely
social affairs, and visitors are made very welcome. For more info check out
www.bikehash.freeservers.com, this is the official KL MTB Hash page. Or for
running hash info go to www.geocites.com/colleseum/mound/8678
Beyond KL
The Forestry Research Institute of Malaysia is
situated at Kepong, 10 miles north of KLCC. This is a great place to get a
taste of the jungle, and to learn about things along the way. There are several
forest walks, including a canopy walk and it has one of the most amazing forest
canopies you'll find anywhere - featured as a cover on National Geographic
Genting Highlands is an 80kms-coach ride from KL. It truly is the most bizarre place, and you'll either love it or hate it! Built atop a high mountain the resort is one huge theme park, complete with hotels, casino and ice rink. It's kind of like a Chinese Disneyland.
Cameron Highlands is a colonial hill resort 4 hours north of KL. Regular busses run to Cameron via Tapah Road. This is where most of the regions tea and fresh produce is grown, and it's cool and calming climate make for an ideal overnight excursion.
Kuala Selangor is famous for it's fireflies. There are several evening trips available to see this amazing phenomenon, mostly take in an evening river punt.
What to do
Batu Caves are situated on the northeastern
tip of KL. A huge staircase climbs high up to, then into this impressive Hindu
temple. At nights the whole area is floodlit, and quite a spectacle, especially
if you manage to visit during a religious festival. The "Golden Triangle"
as it's know is effectively the ultra modern central area of KLCC, which amongst
it's impressive architecture boasts the amazing structures of the twin Petronas
Towers (highest in the world) and the equally impressive Telekom Tower, both
of which you can take enter and scale. Chinatown KL is based around the Petaling
Street area, and must be one of the most impressive in Asia. It's best visited
in the evenings, when the hustle and bustle is at its height. You can buy
just about anything you want here needless to say its mostly counterfeit!
Its also the best place for Chinese food in town, and a great place to get
hold of fresh local produce and Chinese herbs and medicines. KLs Lake Gardens
are situated to the west of the city centre. They were built by the British,
and make for a great day out. Not only can you walk and boat in the gardens
you could also visit the National Museum, National Planetarium, the Dear Park,
Insect Museum, Orchid Park, Bird Park or the Butterfly Park. All are around
the lake garden area.
Shopping
Shopping is big business in KL. Huge shopping
molls can be found all over the city, and offer everything from designer labels
to discount electronic gear (they are also great escapes from the heat or
rain). The biggest and best of these is the Mid Valley Mega Moll, also well
worth checking out is the KLCC Suria Centre (beneath twin towers) and the
KL Plaza. If you're looking for a real bargain, be it a DVD, CD, clothes or
sun glasses the head down to the night market in Petaling Street Chinatown
you won't be disappointed. For local crafts the best place is the converted
Central Market, which is not far from the but station.
Where to stay
As with any capital city KL is blessed with
a plethora of hotels and accommodation options unfortunately the budget end
of the chain doesn't quite match the options available outside of the city.
In and around Chinatown you will find a number of budget Chinese hotels and
guesthouses. Dull dorm room beds can cost as little as B#4 a bed, and budget
hotel prices start from B#10 per room. Try the Backpackers Travellers Lodge
at 158 Jalan Tun for a decent choice of options. Well worth checking out as
a mid range option is the Hotel Nova on Jalan Alor which has nice rooms for
around B#18 including breakfast. There is no shortage of quality hotels at
decent rates some of these are best booked along with your flight from the
UK. Great value is the Concorde Renaissance on Jalan Sultan Ismail, where
B#50 will get you a luxury room for the night.
Where to eat
Without a doubt Malaysia has to be South
East Asias finest culinary gem. The multi racial society is reflected in the
amazing variety of cuisine available. This situation is even more concentrated
in KL. Typical Malay cuisine is perhaps the least common of every day food
in the country. Its generally quite spicy, and often contains fish and chill
and is served with rice, traditionally on banana leaves and eaten by hand.
Fried bananas is another delicacy. Chinese food is very popular and styles
here are mainly Cantonese and Hokkien, though just about everything is available.
If you get chance then you should try Steamboat; this is more or less a Chinese
style fondue, where you boil skewered meats and vegetables in hot water at
your table, then pay for the number of skewers you eat. Indian food is also
very popular. Most dining in KL will either take place in a coffee shop, or
at open street cafes. At street cafes you can often select particular dishes
from a number of specialist stalls, which is a great and authentic way to
eat. Chinatown is great for street dining, as are the many street cafe areas
dotted around town. For western style food then try one of the trendy cafe
bars or diners around Jalan Bukit Bintang, or for something extra special
try the revolving restaurant at the top of the Telekom Tower.
Where to drink
Being a Muslim country alcohol is not always
available in restaurants. Most Chinese and western style eateries serve beer
(Tiger and Carlsberg) and occasionally wine. For something more lively head
along to the central area around Jalan Bukit Bintang. There are loads of trendy
bars and nightspots here including Planet Hollywood and The Hard Rock Cafe.
Just a short ride out of the centre is the Bangsar area, which is where the
local trendies hang out. The area is a mass of trendy restaurants, bars and
nightclubs, and is very glittery compared to the rest of KL. Jazz and blues
fans should check out No Black Tie, which is just behind the Istana Hotel
in KLCC. Live quality acts appear here several times a week.
The serious stuff
Time difference GMT + 8 hours
Money
The national currency: is the Malay Ringgit
(currently about 5.4 to B#1). The currency is restricted, so you will have
difficulties obtaining it from outside of Malaysia. There are ATMs everywhere,
most accept Cirrus and other similar transactions.
Paperwork
UK citizens do not require visas. Entry cards
are to be completed on arrival at KLIA.
Getting there
Most major airlines fly to Kuala Lumpur,
with Malaysian Airlines possibly offering the best direct services from the
UK. Malaysian often has great deals to Australia, with free stopovers in KL.
The KLIA airport is south of the city. To KL centre (KLCC) takes about an
hour by taxi or bus. Airport taxis work on a fixed price ticket system, with
KLCC costing about B#13 each way. Busses are much cheaper, and very convenient.
The new KLIA Express fast train now runs from the airport to the city rail
station. It costs about B#8 and takes just 35 minutes.
Getting around
Around the city you can either use the bus
service, the numerous red taxis or more centrally the LRT Metro system, which
is fast and efficient. Getting out of KL and around the country is possible
by bus, most of which are fast, air-conditioned. Or for longer haul destinations
try internal flights. These flights are inexpensive by European standards.
There is also a limited internal rail network, which is ideal for west coat
travel and links to Singapore. Car hire is easily available, though KL traffic
its self is crazy, and can be intimidating to the uninitiated. For getting
outside of KL this makes for a great option though it is not cheap. Check
out www.hawkrac.com
Climate & when to go
The climate in Malaysia is typically tropical,
which means it's hot and humid all year round. During the western winter months
it also rains most days, though often heavy it's not usually for too long.
In the hill country temperatures are considerably cooler, though still comparatively
warm they do make for a pleasant escape from the intense humidity of the city.
During Chinese New Year you will find the city very quiet, and many businesses
closed up for a 2-week period.
Health
Malaysia is perhaps the cleanest and healthiest
of South East Asian countries. Hygiene and medical standards are quite high.
Even so you do need to be careful with your eating and drinking; avoid non
bottled water and drinks containing ice, try and stick to cooked foods, unless
you know they come from a clean kitchen, and avoid obviously re-heated street
food. Dehydration can be a problem, so be sure to drink loads of water. After
a couple of sweaty hours in humid conditions you will really notice its effects.
Be sure to use plenty of sun block too. Vaccinations; check with GP. Malaria
tablets not required for the peninsular If you do get sick then simply walk
into a clinic and get sorted it really is simple and fast.
Further info
Language: Malay, though almost everybody
uses English as their primary language Religion: Muslim though nothing like
as extreme as in other countries Country code: 00 60 Electric; 240v standard
3 pin UK style plugs Communications; GSM mobiles work almost everywhere. Plenty
of pay phones, and a whole load of cyber cafes. For more detailed general
info check out the Lonely Planet guide to Malaysia. A great place to pick
up more detailed local literature is in one of the huge bookshops to be found
in the shopping molls of KL.
