Driving in from the record summer heats of Colorado
I was having serious second thoughts about the whole meaning and purpose of
my visit to Moab. Not to say that it was my first visit to this slick rock
mountain bike Mecca. But that was exactly it - this was fat tire town, would
a guy with dropped bars and skinny tires be run out of the place by a band
of hairy legged full suspension riding cowboys? In all my time I'd never even
considered riding on the paved roads of the Canyonlands, let alone heard of
anyone else doing so - was I to be the pioneering road missionary of Moab?
The answer here was to be a happy and emphatic no!
The other thing rolling back and forth through my driven out mind were the
numerous grins and head noddings given by those I'd so far encountered along
the way. I felt like some kind of biblical character; " I'm going to Moab
to ride on the road." I'd say, that poor unfortunate grin and nod almost always
came back in response; " Road bike? Moab? July?" Yes okay, some could get
their heads around the first bit - but Moab in July, that was hot season,
in fact it was positively baking season - and this year the surrounding forest
fires of Colorado had wind sent their smoky delights across the Canyonlands
area to add to the effect.
Rolling through the mid afternoon heat haze I trundled into town via Poison
Spider Bicycles, the road bike centre of fat city. The guys there had prepared
some ride info and arranged for a series of bicycles at dawn show downs for
me to partake of. These early starts are crucial for mid summer riding in
these parts. Get past mid morning and the heat is seriously intense on the
desert roads, so it's necessary to manifest into some kind of demi-vampire
like biker of the desert in order to survive.
A
couple of early morning slow bakes seemed like a good option before attempting
the formidable La Sal Loop. In normal conditions it would still prove an epic
ride out, but given the mid morning temperature curfew it would be a race
against time and the desert spirits in mid summer. Potash Road and the Arches
were first up, mid distance ride ins which are ideal for acclimatisation and
summer riding in the area. The Potash is a flat ride alongside the Colorado
River. The gorge is amazing, intimidating even. It also gives you a great
spiritual sense of the area when you see ancient rock art and etchings on
the red rock faces above you. As for Arches, what can you say; this is possibly
the most imposing and dramatic of the areas parks, and an amazing ride out.
But inevitably the big day loomed, and it was an early breakfast at La Sal
peak on top of the menu. The sun was rising lazily from behind the gentle
and distinguished La Sal mountains as we sped across the desert towards them,
gently dazed by the early morning sun and the lack of a caffeine kick start.
At first it's just a heavy and mildly draggy road, but almost before you know
it the battle is on, the battle with an un-named cross bread desert mountain
beast who upon slaying would be named La Sal Pass, which is Steve speak for
something unprintable.
On and on, it becomes a battle of survival. With the rising height and awakening
sun so the slow boiling process begins, though it is so much cooler up here
than the furnace bellow. After an eternity of climbing we roll out onto a
deserted alpine plateau, from where we can make out the distant orange shapes
of the desert below us. It really is another world up here, and so far removed
from the moonscape bellow us.
As we cruised along in the refreshing morning air a bear reared up in the
road before us. Yes, seriously, a brown bear cub out for a morning hike decided
to check out the strange Lycra clad figures heading towards him. It wasn't
long before he fled to the bushes, though I still had time to snap him - that's
what you call a once in a ride time experience, so don't bank on seeing bears
if you take on this ride.
The ridge top road dips and dives it's way along the crest of these admirable
heights, winding it's way through sun speckled aspen trees before kissing
the coolness behind on it's way back down to earth.
The newly surfaced Castle Valley road is steep and narrow, and very twisty.
It's also one of the most amazing descents you'll find anywhere. The transformation
from the alpine greenery to the high pillared red rock desert is quite bewildering.
Bellow us the huge rock pillars and outcrops of Castle Valley slowly but surely
emerge from the smoke-smattered haze to become surrounding realities. This
is real Wild West stuff, and amazing to ride through.
By now we're back down towards start level, and it's toasting it's way towards
mid morning. It's more or less downhill through Castle Valley, thankfully.
Next up is the final windswept rolling slog back to Moab. This final section
is almost an hour long and weaves it's way through a huge walled red rock
gorge with the Colorado River running besides you all the way back to town.
And it's just in time for a late breakfast, before fleeing home to the chilled
air con safety of my hotel room.
Fact
file
Moab, UtahCurrency US$
Language English
Religion Mormon
Time Zone Mountain
Altitude 3920 feet
Guide book Lonely Planet Southwest
Getting there
Moab is in the deep south east of Utah State, To it's
immediate east are Colorado's Rocky Mountains while the deserts and canyons
of the region roll out south and westwards towards the Grand Canyon and Arizona.
By air the closest airport is Salt Lake City, which is a five hour drive or
shuttle ride away. If you're heading in from the Rockies then either Denver
or Albuquerque are possible options for flights. There is a small airport
just out of town, though most people take the road option.
Where to stay
One thing you won't be short of in Moab is lodging
options; the town has a huge number of hotels and inns to suit all tastes
and budgets, the best bet at peak holiday times is to check out deals on the
net and book in advance. Rooms cost anywhere from $55 per night plus. Outside
of peak times then it's safe and easy to simply turn up, drive through town
and check the rate and availability boards.
There are also a couple of decent campsites in town, which make for a good
budget option. For general details and other links go to www.discovermoab.com
Eating and drinking
There are loads of great eateries of all kinds in Moab. A good idea is to pick up a menu guide from the information centre, that way you get to check out prices and offers. For breakfast and great smoothies check out the Peace Tree and Jailhouse Café. For anytime eating you must check out the Moab Diner, a local institution which is famed for it's green chilli. Another popular haunt in the Slickrock Café, which is also a cyber café. Pasta lovers should check out Pasta Jays, while for all you can eat pizza deals Zak's is good. There are also several good Mexican and fast food outlets in town. One thing nobody should leave town without doing is spending an evening at Eddie McStiffs; Eddie was the legal first microbrewer in Utah State, and he definitely serves the finest beers in town, if not the state. On top of this great food is on offer, with the speciality being aged southwestern beef, which is quite a treat.
Bike shops
There are several great bike shops in Moab, and all
are along Main St. But without a doubt the best facilitated for road biking
is Poison Spider Bicycles, which is on the northern end of town. The guys
here are very road friendly and will be happy to point you in the right direction
for good riding. They also produce a free road ride guide to the area, which
has some great routes marked on it - complete with directions, profiles and
descriptions.
Quality road bikes are also available for hire here, and plenty of spares
are held in stock. There is also a public work stand area outside the shop.
Check out www.poisonspiderbicycles.com or call + 800 635 1792
Skinny Tire Festival
Last year Poison Spider Bicycles organised the first ever Canyonlands Skinny Tire Festival (following on from the famous Fat Tire Fest). There were daily rides and activities, along with support and pic nic food. All in all it was a great success, and the second addition will follow suit this coming April. For details check out the Poison Spider web site.
National Parks
Moab is cradled between several of Utah's, and America's, most stunning national parks. Straight out of town it is easy to ride in to the Canyonlands and Arches national parks - two of the most amazing of these red rock parks. By bike you will be charged $5 entry for week pass, or if you intend making numerous visits you could purchase an annual pass for $50.
The route
La Sal Loop
Distance 62-miles/100 km
Duration 4 hours
Climbing 5000 feet approx.
Grade tough
Starting from the Poison Spider shop head south on Highway 191. Just over
8 miles out turn left towards Ken's Lake, following the La Sal Loop Road signs.
This road climbs high into the La Sal Mountains, then dips up and down some
before dropping through a series of bends into the Castle Valley. After a
long desert descent you reach a T-junction with the Hwy 128 and the Colorado
River. Turn left here and follow the road along the valley until you reach
a T-junction with the Hwy 191 again. Turn left here and retrace back to town.
NB. This is the normal direction for the route, although it is just as good
in the opposite direction.
Be sure to take plenty of water out with you, as refill stops are not easy
to find en route.
When to go
Really speaking Moab and the surrounding area is good
all year round for riding - as long as you are well prepared. That said the
best times have to be spring and autumn, when temperatures are warm and dry
- making for optimum biking conditions. During the winters the scenery is
stunning, though it will be very cold and can be prone to the occasional white
out. During this time the higher reaches of the La Sal Loop are out of bounds
due to snow. Mid summer is perhaps the toughest time for biking here. Daytime
temperatures can be scary hot, meaning that early morning starts are the only
fun option for riding.
Another consideration for riding these roads is traffic. During prime national
holiday periods traffic can be heavy in the national parks, though early riders
will still have the roads pretty much to themselves.
Other riding in the area
There are rides to suit all abilities in and around Moab. For great and stunning flat riding the Potash Road and Colorado River Road rides are stunning, while the climb up to the plateau in Arches National park is amazing, and makes for a great 40 mile ride. For longer options you can head into the Canyonlands or southwards across the deserts, either way there is no shortage of options. Drop in at Poison Spider when you get to town and pick up a copy of the free road ride guide.
Steve's hill report
La Sal Pass
Distance almost 30 miles in total
Altitude gain almost 5000 feet
Gear recommended 39 x 25/26
This climb isn't exactly what you'd expect to find rearing up from the middle
of a desert. Riding out of town you'll find yourself gently grovelling from
the off, only slightly, but given the desert heat you'll be feeling it. After
a half an hour or so the lumpy sight of the La Sals appears before you, like
a kind of pronounced cloud formation, but all to soon you'll find they are
not.
Without any fair notice the road thins down and the gradient steepens. Twist
after twist you wrench out of the saddle and rattle down through the gears.
The gradient steepens some more, and then the screw really turns in on you.
The air is thinning out and it truly seems never ending. And, well, it almost
is never ending. As your surroundings rise from the desert into the high alpine
domain the constant gradient and thinning air bite hard. Ultimately you ease
out onto a cool high rolling plateau, which is by no means the end of things,
but in effort and mental terms you've cracked this unwarranted desert rat.
