As featured in Global Adventure
In search of something completely different Steve
Thomas headed upstream in
to the heart of Snowdonia for a gorge walking adventure;
There
was absolutely no way that I could even hold the camera still. I was in
stitches as Lincoln swung like a hyperactive chimp from the overhanging
branch, inches away from taking an early cold bath. Seconds before the branch
leaping issue I'd managed to convince him that all was safe with the branch,
and that crossing it would make for a top picture. And, truly it would make
a top shot, if only I could hold still for long enough to get it. "
Hold it there a minute " I pleaded as his wet and frailing fingers
struggled with the tree. "Okay got it ". Ah, but what now? He
was marooned half way across a chilled, and waiting, rock-pool and on the
shakiest imaginable of branches. If he had any hope of staying dry his only
option was to continue with the chimp like slither across the branch, and
then to somehow swing and leap to the safety of the slippery rocks on the
other side. This is what I was really hoping for. The big splash shot. Further
and further he shimmied his way along the ever -thinning
branch, which drooped closer and closer to the water with every inch gained.
He was in a no win situation. With his backside skimming the waters surface
he swung down and made his great leap for drydome. Splash! Stumbling and
splashing like mad somehow he managed to stay upright. Thus keeping his
soaking bellow the knees.
The whole thing had the pair of us rolling around in tears of laughter,
which was heightened in the sure and certain knowledge that in order to
save face I was going to have to perform the very same tree dipping ritual
myself. Yes, it really was harder than it looked. It had been years since
I'd climbed trees, and you do kind of tend to forget how much fun these
things can be. Even getting wet can be fun, especially if it's someone else
taking the dip. Not quite masterfully I manageable the manoeuvre with about
the same degree of success, and our mission continued in a more squelchy,
giggly style.
This is gorge walking. A sort of scrambling, come pot holing, tree climbing,
and wading form of following the course of a gorge. Sometime last year I'd
discovered gorge walking, and after overhearing someone mentioning that
this particular gorge was open for business I figured that I'd introduce
Lincoln to the sport. The great thing about this bizarre pursuit is that
you can have all of the fun of climbing or scrambling, only without having
to scale a huge great mountain along the way. Plus with gorge walking you
always have the option of just getting out should things get dicey, and
you can make it as easy, or as technical as you want to.
We'd started the day by disappearing beneath a bridge, like a pair of moles.
From there we found ourselves immediately in to action. A huge, tree lined
gorge bouldered its course ahead of us. At first the going was pretty straightforward,
just hopping and dodging around a few rocks. Further and further in to the
gorge so things progressed. The boulders became further apart, and the dreaded
mossy slip-rock kicked in with a twist. This is probably the gorge walker's
worse nightmare. But, then again it's also the most fun bit. Slithering
and sliding around, hoping not to take a fall we moved deeper in to the
gorge.Suddenly we were halted. Ahead of us
was a huge, slippery, cascading waterfall. There were two options; to scramble
out of the gorge and go around it. Or to
scale it the hard way. Well, there really wasn't that much of a choice was
there?
Tentatively we clambered along the cliff face to the foot of the falls,
clinging to dryness by only our finger tips and toes. Lincoln scrambled
up ahead of me, and sat perched high above grinning down at me, in a vengeful
kind of way. The falls face was ultra slippery, and my hiking boots were
no remedy to the situation. After a few near scrapes I finally topped the
falls without becoming the fall guy.
Along the way we came across a whole load of secluded coves and waterfalls.
Places that you would never imagine existed, and that you certainly wouldn't
see from any other angle of approach. Gorge walking isn't just fun, it really
does throw a whole different light on the great outdoors.
Soon enough we reached, what for us at least, was the end of the gorge.
Once again we had the familiar double-ended option, and duly took the wet
one, what else! Give it a whirl, you'll be hooked - believe me!
If you're heading to Snowdonia from
the North, the A55 dual carriageway leads right along the North Wales coastline
from Chester and on to Conwy. From here you pick up the A470 to Betws y
Coed. If you're heading directly for the gorge the B5279 off the A470, then
go left along the B5106 until you pass a pub on the right (Tal-y-Bont).
Just as you reach a small bridge you will see a parking area to the left.
This is the start of the gorge walk.
From the Midlands follow the A5 from Shrewsbury to Betws y Coed, then the
A470 to Llanrwst. Turn left here and the right on the B5106. Pass through
Dolgarrog and park on the right after crossing the bridge (as above).
The rail line runs between Conwy and Betws y Coed. For times Tel. 0345
484950.
The gorge we walked was along the Afon Dulyn, just off the B51006, along the Conwy valley. There are other gorges along the valley too, both to the north and south of Dolgarrog. Before you set out please check that they are open, and access is permitted. The Betws y Coed Tourist info should be able to confirm these details.
There are loads and loads of pubs and
cafes in Betws y Coed; the Tan Lan bakers/cafe is one of the best. The Alpine
Coffee shop, by the train station, does top buttiess, and the coffee is
pretty good too. The best Pub in town is probably the Royal Oak.
There are also a few decent pubs and teashops along the Dolgarrog road.
There's plenty of decent accommodation in the area. For details and availability you'd be best to call the Tourist Information Office in Betws y Coed Tel 01690 710426
There must be more outdoor shops between
Betws y Coed than almost anywhere west of Kathmandu. Cotswold has 2 shops
in Betws, their clearance shop (with bike shop upstairs) and a huge new
store - which must be the largest in town.Tel; 01690 710234. Climber and
Rambler is also well stocked Tel 01690 710555.
Cunninghams is smaller, but has a good stock Tel 01690 710424. There is
also Joe
Brown at Capel Curig and Llanberis Tel. 01286 870327. Ellis Brigham also
have good stores in Llanberis and Capel Curig.
The weather on the Snowdon range can
be harsh, and extremely changeable.Gorge walking can be very dangerous after
heavy rain, so check it out first.In depth and accurate daily weather forecasts
are posted in the window of the Tourist Information Centre at Betws y Coed.
Alternatively call before you leave.
Betws y Coed Tourist Info 01690 710426 National
Parks Office 01766 770274
First and foremost do not go gorge walking
alone - it could prove fatal! Avoid heavy rain periods too. We just wore
standard hiking boots for the walk, though at times simple wellies, or even
water sandals would have dealt better with the slimy wet rocks.
It is definitely advisable to wear a decent climbing helmet and a maybe
life jacket too, as it's almost inevitable that you are going to fall and
get wet at some stage. Wearing a wetsuit would also be a wise move.
