As featured in Global magazine
Stranded near anonymously in the depths
of the Indian Ocean Mauritus lies as
still a vaguely undiscovered island paradise, as Steve Thomas discovers.
Half cut, sprawled on an Indian Ocean beach beneath
the stars singing yet another verse from West Virginia, then suddenly it was
time to hit the water and swim towards the hazy boats moored in the distant
bay before us. Okay, so perhaps that’s not a great idea, but a few smacks
of the local Green Island rum, on top of a barrel load of beer, and well,
well, just well, you know what I mean. Yeah, this was our last day on the
island paradise of Mauritus. I couldn’t help but surmise as to how unfair
life was at that particular moment. Such a paradise, and mid winter too, yet
there we were heading back home. For lords sake it was mid January, and here
we were, midnight and it was still some 30 degrees of humidity, and we were
flying back to the frozen pipes and gloomy wet afternoons of damn old Blighty.
Criminal! That’s what it was, but I guess at
least we’d been privileged enough to be here in the first place, so there
was an upside to the impending white bird voyage, I guess…
Just a few weeks before I’d had absolutely no concept of where Mauritus
was, let alone what the place was all about. The trip had come around last
minute, so I really hadn’t even had chance to read up on it. Now that’s
kinda bad, but it’s also lightly refreshing. It leaves you so much more
open minded, and totally unexpecting of things, which is what travelling is
really all about – experiences and surprises. All I knew was the place
was somewhere near the Seychells, which didn’t do that much to help my
geographically challenged preconceptions, so it really was a voyage in to
the unknown for me, or even a journey of ignorance come to that!
The Air Mauritius plane journey to the island did a whole lot to break down
and warm up those preconceptions. I’d never been on such a friendly and
relaxed flight, I half expected the captain to come back and join us for the
second bottle of red wine, and who knows, he probably did! I was so far-gone
that I really couldn’t tell you, which is good.
Having travelled extensively in the sub continent, and indeed in northern
Africa I was well armed and prepared for my escape from the airport. Trolley
and armour gleaming and I was ready for the obligatory charge of the touts.
But do you know what? They didn’t show! No, this really was one huge
island inhabited by friendly people, or so it seemed, and first impressions
are always the most important after all.
So soon, yet so imposing. I already had a good feel for this place. The trans
island drive to the hotel did nothing but enhance this warm feel. I gazed
in awe at the sights; endless fields of sugar cane, bustling, yet chilled
villages sporting everything from Buddhist shrines to Hindu temples, a true
blend of cultures and minds, and in the most idyllic of places.
Our initial aim had been to go and surf, or to
be more precise to wind surf, then surf afterwards, while taking in the islands
culture and splendours in between times. Mauritius, you see, is famed for
it’s surf and water sports, and with good reason too. The crystal clear
waters of the Indian Ocean, combined with the white sandy beaches and tropical
climate conspire to make this place a veritable paradise for seekers of laid
back wet solitude and adventure. It truly is one of the finest places on earth
to find such things.
The island is actually volcanic, all be it dormant. Theoretically it forms
part of a chain of volcanoes stretching right through the Indian Ocean. On
the ground this theory is quite apparent, mainly due to the large number of
grey-black volcanic rocks littered all around the island. Although, all most
visitors ever see of the island are the sandy beaches and crystal clear waters
of holiday brochure stuff, there is a whole load more to this beautiful island.
It may well only be some 58 kilometres in length, and even less in width,
but it crams a whole lot in to that space. The northern coastlines are well,
and
deservedly, praised and renown for their beaches and surf, while the eastern
coastline falls not far behind. To the south west of the island things become
a tad more dramatic; breaks in the islands surrounding coral reef allow huge
great waves to batter in towards the imposing high cliffs, which is an amazing
sight. Heading inland some you’ll find the most impressive of green mountains.
These beauties may not even reach the heights of 900 meters, but they sure
do strike home with a vengeance. Lush green forests, cascading water falls
and cool moody high mountain plateau’s provide a complete contrast to
the all inclusive beach resorts which are home, and even prison, to most of
the islands tourist trade. The opportunity for active adventure in these central
mountains is limitless, and virtually untapped. Whatever you fancy –
biking, hiking, canyoning,
the interior has it all, and it’s still a relatively well kept secret.
Independent travel has never been widely promoted here, yet the infrastructure
and incitement is definitely there.
Geographically speaking the place has a basket full of potential, owing to
this blend of coastal and mountain terrain. Climatically it may be a tad on
the humid side, but what else do you expect from a tropical island? Yet overall
that lot really falls by the wayside in experience terms. What the average
package tourist seldom gets to see is the real Mauritus, a land of warm and
friendly relaxed people and diverse cultures. One huge great cultural and
racial melting pot, which turns out the most amazing of spicy soups, all blended
from the finest of African, Indian, Chinese, and European ingredients, that
you simply help but find delicious!
Many major airlines now fly to Mauritius, including British Airways and Air France, but Air Mauritius still retains the most frequent, and arguably the best service to the island. Flight prices vary dependent on the season, but expect to pay around £500 plus for a return ticket. Contact your local travel agent for prices and details.
Mauritius has a tropical climate; thus the seasons do not differ dramatically. Obviously Christmas and mid summer are the busiest times, and thus the most expensive. The bulk of the islands tourism still comes from France and neighbouring French colonised Reunion, which means that French national holidays also become peak times on Mauritius.
Over the years most western empires have taken a slice
of Mauritius, thus a multi cultural and colonial society has evolved. Officially
the joint national languages are French and English, though in practice that
issue become somewhat confused; all official business and paperwork is carried
out in English, which is also taught in schools, yet the spoken word is predominantly
still French. But, on the streets Creole is widely spoken. Either way you
will generally be understood as long as you speak clear English.
The population is dominated by Indians, thus Hindu is the majority as far
as religion goes, yet Muslim, Chinese Buddhist, and European Catholicism have
their place in every day society.This multi cultural melange reflects right
through the islands’ society,
including in the cuisine, which is a bizarre Creole mix of all of these spicy
delights, with seafood obviously being dominant on most menus.
On the ground costs on Mauritius are very low compared
to western standards. Eating and drinking on the island will cost you around
a third of what you’d pay in a UK restaurant, though in the package resort
hotels you would be on a par with UK prices. Accommodation is varied, with
the coastal hotels mainly being of the major package tour variety, and priced
accordingly. Out and away from these places you will find numerous guesthouses,
chalets and small hotels, all of which will come at a refreshingly reasonable
price.
We stayed at Le Coco Beach hotel/resort, which is at Belle Mare, on the islands
north east coast. The hotel is a large and uniquely designed place, and is
offered at very reasonable rates in may tour operator’s package deals,
including Kuoni. For details go to www.lecocobeach.com
Do not consider a trip to the island without first checking out the Lonely Planet Survival Guide to Mauritius!
