As featured in Canoe & Kayak UK
In search of something a little different Steve Thomas takes an unusual paddle around mangrove wetlands, rivers and the sun blessed islands and water villages of Sabah in Borneo
Suddenly one our torches caught the sight of a croc
tail ending it in to the murky night waters. I gulped and questioned "So
there really are crocs here then?" The unwelcome reply came back "Oh
yes, but they’re only small ones, so they don’t tend to go for people."
A shiver went right down my spine as I thought back to the day I’d just
spent splashing around in these very waters - joking about croc wrestling.
Oh well, I guess I’ll spend less time in the water next time. But there’s
no real need to worry; they are not the man snack kind.
It had been an eventful day in the mangrove swamps of Weston. After learning
the delights of keeping a native dug out canoe upright we’d caught the
tail end of a typhoon at sea and now after a few beers were out on an impromptu
night safari in search of the long nosed proboscis monkey, a creature native
to these wetlands.
A few more late night beers and a stunning firefly display later and it was
time to hit the sack, and grab a well earned 40 winks before the following
days canoe expedition around this amazing slice of the far east.
The wetlands area is a delta like region that covers a huge area along the
southwest coast of Borneo, and all but borders the small country of Brunei.
It’s home to many indigenous peoples, who live mainly in stilt water
villages which are dotted around the swamplands. On the whole it’s an
area that still remains very untouched by tourists – with fishing being
the main source of revenue for the locals.
Our plan was a trip around and through the endless and narrow overhanging
mangrove canals, around the water villages, and on to check out the local
fishermen, seemingly a first for westerners. The ethos of the Weston Lodge
is all about keeping things natural, which meant that we were doing all of
this in dug out canoes. This is a great idea in principle, but the small one
man set ups do take a little getting used to, though once you do get used
to them they’re great fun, and add real character to the paddling.
It was a perfect way to see the area in stealth like mode. Creeping motor
free through the mangroves we managed to get fantastic close up encounters
with all kinds of wild life – including the Dutch Man himself (proboscis
monkey – named the Dutch Man after the natives first encountered the
white Dutch men, with their big noses). Moving further away from the lodge
we paddled past small water villages – children waving franticly at the
sight. It was a fantastic trip culturally, and a great way to interact with
the friendly locals. Even the fishermen were all too pleased to pass the time
of day with us, and show us their catches. As evening drew closer it was time
to head back to the lodge
before the dusk time bugs bit to hard – and just in time for an amazing
sun set beer before heading north for the next leg of out Borneo water journey.
White water rafting and some great kayaking had been
promised for our day on the Padas River (at some 200 kms long it’s the
lengthiest in Sabah). The only thing is that there is no road entry to the
river, which means we also got to take on one of the most amazing train journeys
in this part of the world. An early morning "jungle express" had
been booked for us. This is the only, and oldest, rail line in Borneo, built
years ago by the "White Raj" it’s not changed since then.
Crammed in with local jungle dwellers on their way back from market we sat
between rafts and kayaks as the sweaty journey begun. Clunking and jerking
the train maid it’s way along side the Padas, through far-flung jungle
outposts, an amazing experience.
After what seemed like an eternity we hit the muddy brown waters of the Padas
for day of paddling through its grade 4/5 rapids. It was a great day out,
and superb paddling – though I was really glad we had the guides along
for the ride – further down stream are a family of crocks, and the unwary
may well of provided then with a late afternoon of fun and nibbles…
And
finally to seaFurther north still, and on to Kota Kinabalu –
the state capital city, and our final couple of days of paddling. This time
around we’d switched dug outs and inflatable for sea kayaks, in order
to check out the stunning tropical islands just off the coast of the city.
Once again I had my faithful-paddling companion Isa along for the day –
who unfortunately also owns the local record for paddling the 21-km island
loop, so I was not bargaining on challenging him to a race. The familiar sight
of the equatorial sun greeted us as we paddled across the still clear waters
of the South China Sea, heading for a circumnavigation of the southernmost
islands in the group. It was long old paddle across the waters, but the cheers
and waves from the passing inter island water taxis kept us going. Cruising
in closer to the islands was truly amazing; deserted sandy beaches and rock-strewn
coves – all lined with dense tropical jungles. Ideal for the first of
our many snack stops of the day.
Some of the islands are completely deserted, others only partly. It’s
possible to stay on a couple of them, which in hindsight would have been a
great plan for our tour. Instead we spent the days making sorties from the
mainland, exploring all the hidden gems on offer, and taking time to trek
through the jungles interiors and well as a little snorkelling in the crystal
clear coral clad waters. All in all the perfect way to unwind after a week
of varied and enlightening far eastern paddling.
Capital; Kuala Lumpur national, Kota Kinabalu state.
Currency: Malay ringgit
Language: Bahasa Malay (about 80 dialects in Sabah), though almost everybody
uses English as their primary language
Religion: Muslim – but nothing like as extreme as in other countries.
Most native people are now Christian.
Time zone: GMT + 8 hours
Country code: 00 60
Electric; 240v standard 3 pin UK style plugs
Communications; GSM mobiles work almost everywhere. Plenty of pay phones and
a whole load of cyber cafes in KK.
Visas; not required by UK citizens
Vaccinations; check with GP on current jabs. Malaria tablets are required
for Sabah
Most major airlines fly to Kuala Lumpur, which is the main gateway to Sabah. From here you need to take a connecting flight to Kota Kinabalu in Sabah. Malaysian Airlines offer the best direct services from the UK. Before booking check on special offers and routings; Malaysian Airlines often have great deals to Australia, with free stopovers in KL, and internal flights included. Expect to pay between £350 and £650 (often also includes Oz).
Taxis are available at reasonable rates from the airport,
and operate on a voucher system. From KK (near to Filipino market) you can
catch busses and min busses to most places in the state. For longer journeys
to the other side of the state internal flights are cheap, and by far the
best option.
Ground transport and tour packages of all kinds can be made and tailored to
suit through Borneo Travel and TYK Adventure tours www.mega-ecom.com/thamyaukong
or www.borneo-travel.com or call 01492 650255.
The climate in Malaysian Borneo is typically tropical, which means it’s hot and humid all year round. During the western winter months it also rains most days, although often heavy it’s not usually for too long. If there’s a typhoon in the Philippines then Sabah often gets the fading tale end of things. Regular maritime reports are published in the local papers. In general paddling around the islands and the wetlands is good and safe – except during high winds.In the hill country around Kinabalu temperatures are considerably cooler and wetter than on the flats, though still comparatively warm they do make for a pleasant escape from the humidity of the flat lands.
Malaysia is one of the cleanest and healthiest of South
East Asian countries. Hygiene and medical standards are quite high. Even so
you do need to be careful with your eating and drinking; avoid non bottled
water and drinks containing ice, try and stick to cooked foods, unless you
know they come from a clean kitchen, and avoid obviously re-heated street
food.
Insect bites can be a problem in jungle areas and at dusk and dawn in the
wetlands and river regions, so make sure you’re always well coated with
insect repellent. Leeches are only really a problem when you get off the beaten
track in to humid or wet jungle areas (around Mt Kinabalu). Leeches themselves
are not harmful, simply take them off with a knife – and be sure to kill
them. Be sure to clean any wounds and dress with iodine. Tiger leeches, which
are peculiar to Borneo, do seriously sting, but are still not harmful.
You will also need anti malaria pills, check with your doctor for the latest
recommendations.
Dehydration can be a serious problem here, especially if you’re at sea
all day, so be sure to drink loads of water. After a couple of sweaty hours
in humid conditions you will really notice its effects. Be sure to use plenty
of sun block too.
For travelling in this region your medical kit should contain painkillers,
bandages, plasters, iodine, antiseptic cream, and re-hydration fluids, antibiotics
and Imodium tablets for emergencies.
There are plenty of good 24-hour walk in "kliniks" in KK, as well
as a great medical centre.
The population of Sabah is a blend of indigenous peoples
(mainly Kadazan Dusan), Chinese and Indians – with several Filipinos
and Indonesians garnishing this incredible cultural melting pot. The main
religion is Muslim, though other religions are also well represented, thus
things are not taken to extremes (Kota Belud is quite strongly Muslim).
Culturally things are equally as diverse – with a great mix of tribal
life mixing in with the various other cultures – quite harmoniously.
My accommodation arrangements were made through Borneo
Travel, which made life a whole lot easier and kept things to a reasonable
budget. In KK I stayed at the superb Sutera Harbour Resort as they have a
great water sports centre – including sea kayaks and surfs – which
are available to guests for a nominal hire fee. The Hotels is also perfectly
situated for paddling the surrounding islands. It is also the start point
for the annual Sabah Sea Kayak Challenge. For details check out www.suteraharbour.com
For the Padas and Weston sections I stayed at the Wetlands Lodge (see bellow).
Deep in the mangrove swamps of the far south west of Sabah is the recently set up Weston Wetlands Lodge. The lodge is built slap-bang in the middle of a huge mangrove swamp, which is inhabited by the long nosed proboscis monkey, crocs and various other forms of wildlife. The place is run by two local brothers, They arrange everything from bird and wild life watching through to native dug our canoe trips, and they have some of the finest sunsets in Borneo. All details are available from TYK.
Malaysia has to be South East Asia’s finest culinary
gem. The multi racial society is reflected in the amazing variety of cuisine
available. Typical Malay cuisine is perhaps the least common of every day
food in the country. It’s generally quite spicy, and often contains fish
and chilli and is served with rice, traditionally on banana leaves and eaten
by hand. Fried bananas and tapioca are other delicacies, usually sold by roadside
street vendors. Satay, of course, is widely available. In the Weston area
be sure to try the pineapples, they’re really tasty. You will also see
river oysters being sold at roadsides –
these are only for those with cast iron guts!
Breakfast is usually fried noodles, roti canai (Indian roti bread and dahl)
or nasi lemak (coconut milk rice).
Most common of all 1s Chinese food, followed by Indian. Eating in Sabah is
not expensive – you’ll get a great fill for less than you’d
pay for fish and chips at home.
Sabah is a Muslim state, so alcohol is not always available. Most Chinese
restaurants serve beer (Tiger is best), and sometimes-even wine or spirits
– but it’s not cheap. Indian and Muslim restaurants generally do
not serve alcohol
Food sold in coffee shops and restaurants is generally fine to eat. Food sold
by street vendors is also safe, and tasty. Try the Filipino market for great
hawker food.
Fresh fruit juice is a popular tipple, as are tea and coffee – though
it tends to be extremely creamy and sweet (and is called "teh tarik").
Ice lemon tea is a great refresher. Out of town the native tipple is rice
or coconut wine, which is sweet and potent.
Malaysia may not be the cheapest Asian country, and Sabah is not as cheap as the peninsular. But compared to European prices it’s a bargain. You eat well for around £1 if you wish and general travel and accommodation costs are very low, which easily offsets the flight costs.ATM’s are everywhere, and credit cards accepted in higher standard hotels and restaurants.
Most of my arrangements were made through TYK Adventure,
who are reputable local adventure experts. It’s well worth dealing with
such a company as it’s inexpensive, and saves a whole load of hassle!
Contact www.mega-ecom.com/thamyaukong or e-mail thamyaukong@hotmail.com
Details of equipment hire, rafting trips and contact for arranging more adventurous
sea and river expeditions can be found through Riverbug at www.traversetours.com
For more detailed general info check out the Lonely
Planet guide to Malaysia.
Once you arrive in Sabah books detailing everything from the local wildlife
and flora to tribal history will surround you. Worth a read are "The
White Man Returns" and "Land Beneath The Wind.’
With current situations and world climates I thought it a good idea to point out that Sabah is a very safe place to travel around. However – it does not pay to enter the water village on Gaya unless escorted by a local and in general the east coast is best only travelled in company. The rest of the region is very safe and friendly.
